The Aegis Forge Leather Works FAQ
What is the difference between ready made, made to order and custom made?
Ready made is already made and customized by me. Our bags allow for their straps to be interchangeable, if you would like a different strap option, please purchase alternate handles. It will ship within 72 hours after payment is complete.
Made to order: Allows customization in strap color, hardware options, and leather choice. This is the step below custom made. These options are in specific sizes, variation from sizing listed will need a custom made order form. These will be made after you order to your preferences, and can take 14-21 days to ship, depending on current orders.
Custom Made: Bigger pocket, 2 inner pockets, no pockets, a size or shape we don't currently make. We will customize to your hearts content in this option. These options come with a design meeting where we will have you send photo's, color, choices and sizing information. We will spend the time to create and perfect you vision and let you know if it possible for us to make the item. The customization options add a base price of $25 for the design meeting, options and customization will be based off our current pricing lists and will be discussed before an invoice is sent. These will be made after you order to your preferences, and can take 14-21 days to ship, depending on current orders.
Types of leather
Bison leather is thick and very durable. It is noted for its distinct, deep grain patterning which gives it a textured, rustic look. The larger pores of bison leather also give it greater breath-ability.
Buffalo Leather - Buffalo leather requires special care and attention during the tanning process.
Bulls are un-castrated male cattle. They have higher levels of testosterone and in general, thick, heavy hides. Bull leather is useful for thicker leather uses such as in heavy belts and show and boot soles. A low ratio number of male cattle are kept as bulls, to reproduce the breeds, so much lower amounts of bull leather are usually available than other types.Steers are castrated male cattle. They are one of the most popular types of animal leather sought. There are also many more steers kept than bulls, so steer leather is more widely available. It works well for leather applications such as saddlery, belts, some shoes, and other strap items.
Cows are female cattle that have had calves. They are very common, and popular. Cow leather is a thick, soft leather that works well for most common leather needs.Heifers are female cows that have not yet had a calf. This type of leather is generally soft and pliable, great for shoes, boots, and other similar leather applications.
Dairy cows are female cattle that are bred primarily for the production of milk. Their hides are generally soft and thin. This makes it a great leather for lighter belts, wallets, clothing, upholstery, and straps.Calves are young male or female cattle. Their hides are generally very soft, thin, and supple. This makes it useful for finer leather applications such as wallets, watchbands, and smaller leather accessories including handbags.
Pig leather: It is used primarily in clothing, due to the breath-ability and lightness of the skins. Pig leather makes up about 10% of the total leather production around the world.Sheep leather, also called sheep skin, is popular because it often has one side as leather and the other covered in wool. the wool naturally draws perspiration away from the wearer. This makes it an ideal leather for use in year-round seat upholstery, shoes, slippers, boots, and moccasins.
Sheep leather, including lamb leather) makes up about 12% of the total leather production around the world.Goat leather is a very soft, strong, and durable leather. It is used often in the production of shoes, boots, gloves, rugs, and bags. The skins are supple and flexible, making for a comfortable feel.
Goat and kid (young goat) leather makes up about 11% of the total leather production around.Horse This leather is most commonly associated with the premium “cordovan” leather. It is made from the butt section of horses.
Cordovan leather is very thick, smooth, and dense. It works excellently for fine shoes and gloves. Also, when compared to cattle hides, horse butts cover a relatively small surface area. This is why cordovan leather products are usually small items such as shoes, gloves, and small accessories.
Full Grain Leather
This cut of leather contains the outer layout of the hide, referred to as the “grain”; it hasn’t been sanded or buffed to remove any imperfections. Generally, only the hair is removed on full grain leathers. The grain generally has densely packed fibers that are finer; this results in a surface that is very strong, durable, and can withstand tough use.Because it undergoes no sanding, the surface can have minor imperfections. These might be from where a cow rubbed up against a fence, a small cut they might have received, or scrapes from everyday life. Full grain hides without many blemishes are the most prized, as they are least common and are the most visually appealing.Those surface fibers are also what give it the most strength of any leather type. This makes it good for saddlery, footwear, and furniture. Since the outer layer isn’t removed, it develops a patina (a surface color change from use) over time that can be pleasing to the eye. The outer layer also provides some water-resistance qualities as well. Full Grain is looked upon as the highest quality leather available.
Top Grain Leather
This cut is very similar to full-grain, except that it has had the very top layer sanded and/or buffed to remove imperfections and irregularities in the finish. This makes the leather softer and more pliable, with various dyes and finished applied to it.While this sanding makes it more visually appealing, it also removes a lot of the strength and some water-repellent qualities of full grain leather. This we begin to see a tradeoff between leather strength, and leather look and softness.Given its softness and flexibility, top grain leather is often used in high end leather goods, including handbags, wallets, and shoes.
We create handmade leather works in Warrenton Oregon.
The biggest drive for wanting to creating our own bags was and is customization. I love so many brands, but always wanted to change a color here or add a pocket there. We strive to create individual unique bags at an affordable price. We use hardware that allows for reversible, and interchangeability with out bags. We sell individual mini handle in a variety colors and our hardware makes it a breeze to change out and customize to your hearts desire.
Hand-Stitching
Saddle stitching is a method used to stitch together two or more pieces of leather. This stitch style must be executed by hand and can’t be replicated by a machine. Saddle stitching is not only the strongest way to stitch leather goods, but it can also be the most beautiful.
How important is saddle stitching? To us, it’s one of the most important elements in the quality and construction of our products.
A saddle stitch is executed with a single length of thread and two needles, one tied to either end. The thread passes through the material on either side creating a figure eight pattern. A single thread passing over itself creates enough friction to maintain the integrity of the stitching even if one stitch fails. In other words, if one stitch is cut the rest of the stitches will stay in place and won’t unravel.
Leather Finishes
When leathers are made, they can be finished in many different ways. These methods yield leathers that can be used for a variety of different purposes. Variations can include texture, flexibility, color, and finish. Let’s explore some of the major types of finished leather.
When leathers are made, they can be finished in many different ways. These methods yield leathers that can be used for a variety of different purposes. Variations can include texture, flexibility, color, and finish. Let’s explore some of the major types of finished leather.
Aniline Leather
Aniline leather is a type of leather dyed only with soluble dyes. They allow the natural surface of the leather to show through (blemishes, cuts, etc.). Generally only higher quality leathers are used since they have nice, even surfaces.
It is then finished with a thin protective coating to help prevent fast wear of the leather, or any other staying or discoloration from showing up on the surface.This can be a visually appealing dye approach, since it does allow the original surface of the leather to show through.
Semi Aniline Leather
Semi-aniline leather is a type of leather that is dyed only with soluble dyes. It is similar to aniline leather, though it is only slightly pigmented. Semi-aniline leathers allow the natural surface of the leather to show through (blemishes, cuts, etc.).
It is then finished with a thin protective coating to help prevent fast wear of the leather, or any other staying or discoloration from showing up on the surface.Generally only higher quality leathers are used since they have nice, even surfaces. This can be a visually appealing dye approach, since it does allow the original surface of the leather to show through.
Antique Grain Leather
Antique grain is a type of leather that has been treated with a surface affect to give an aged and worn appearance. It might involve several tones of finish, or a rubbed pattern to mimic wear over time. Antique grain leather allows one to utilize an aged look in their finished product, without requiring the leather to be very old or worn out.
Bi-cast Leather
Bi-cast is a type of leather made with a split leather backing and an embossed/impressed layer of polyurethane or vinyl on the top. This gives the appearance of a patterned/shiny leather, without the cost of a true top or full grain leather piece.
Brush Colored Leather
Brush colored leather is a type of leather that has pigment applied via a brush. This creates a unique pattern of color on each piece. The variations might be in gradient, blending, or overall tone. Brush colored leather is nice for finished pieces that seek a distinct and creative visual appeal.
De-grained Leather
De-grained leather is a type of leather that has had the grain layer removed. This generally occurs towards the end of the production process. Benefits of degrained leather include a smooth, consistent surface that looks quite nice. However, removing the grain also weakens the outer surface of the layer, making it more susceptible to wear and moisture penetration.
Double Face Leather (Double Sided Leather)
Double face leather, also referred to as double sided leather, is a type of leather that has two uniquely finished sides. Some examples include sheep skins, where one side is finished leather and the other is wool. Another is leather that might have different embossed surfaces, one on each side. It could also relate to color, with each side being a unique color or variation of colors.
Embossed Leather
Embossed leather is a type of leather created by producing raised patterns on the finished hide. This can be done by stamping, pressing, rolling, moulding, or forming the leather. the embossed elements can be designs, lettering, or any visual enhancement to the leather’s surface.
Embroidered Leather
Embroidered leather is a type of leather that has had embroidery applied to it. Embroidery is the craft of embellishing materials with needle and thread. The pattern of the thread is usually placed in such a way as to result in a decorative pattern or motif that is now part of the embroidered material. this is done mainly for visual or aesthetic reasons.
Faux Leather
Faux leather is a type of synthetic leather made generally of polyurethane or vinyl. Faux leather is intended to look like real leather yet cost significantly less. It is used often in the furniture industry and has the benefits of being inexpensive (compared to real leather), durable, and easy to clean.
It does however not reflect real leather qualities such as wearing better over time, having natural stretch-ability, breath-ability, and resistance to cuts and other abrasions, and a unique natural look/feel.
Faux leather can be referred to by a number of names, which can include:
Faux Leather
PU Leather
Vinyl Leather
Vegan Leather
Hand Worked Leather
Hand-worked Leather is a type of leather created by the manual application of leather tools. This can result in leather with tooled, stamped, etched, or embossed surfaces. The results can look quite stunning as the craft of hand working leather is an art in itself.
Interwoven Leather
Interwoven Leather is a type of leather that has been braided together. Often seen in belts, the weave of the leather laces or strips creates a unique looking , textured piece. Weaving leather can be used for straps or belts, as well as small bags and pouches, depending on the skill of the weaver.
Metallic Leather
Metallic Leather is a type of leather that has had a metal layer of material added to it during the finishing process. This layer creates a metallic, shiny, reflective look to the finished leather. It provides a finishing option that is most often used in clothing, accessories, and handbags.
Nubuck Leather
Nubuck is a type of leather that is a top-grain leather that has has the surface sanded in such a way as to leave the surface with a slight nap of short protein fibers. This produces a soft, velvet-like surface that is pleasing to touch, and also has a unique visual appearance. Nubuck leather is often used in jackets, gloves, and accessories.
Oil Leather (Pull-Up Leather, Waxy Leather, Waxed Leather)
Oil Leather, also known as pull-up leather, waxy leather, and waxed leather, is a type of leather that has a larger volume than average amount of oils and waxes in the surface finish. When the leather pieces are flexed and moved, the surface catches the light in different ways, do to the reflections on the oils and waxes. This provides for a varied look across surface tones, which could be quite visually appealing.
Patent Leather
Patent leather is a type of leather that has a high-gloss finish applied via a coating, generally linseed oil. It was developed in 1818 (by inventor Seth Boyden in Newark, New Jersey). Patent leather finishing is often very noticeable with a highly-reflective finish. More modern patent leather replaces the linseed oil finish with a plastic coating finish.
Pearlized Leather
Pearlized Leather is a type of leather that has had a liquid layer of color added to the surface during finishing. It provides for a soft, subtle shine and reflection to the leather. While not as reflective as metallic leather, pearlized leather is a subtler implementation of the same concept. It is popularly used on clothing, accessories, and handbags.
Pigmented Leather
Pigmented leather is a type of leather that is finished with a top coat of pigment (or paint). That pigment helps both provide an even surface on the leather, and also a protective coating. Pigmented leather is often coated with a clear protective sealer, to help protect the pigment layer.
Printed Leather
Printed Leather is a type of leather that has has the surface texture printer, to stamped into it. This creates various leather surface types that might serve both functional and aesthetic purposed. Functional purposes might include helping make the leather surface more scratch and abrasion resistant. Aesthetic purposes might include making it look uniformly pebbled or nubbed. The textures of printed leathers can feel preferable as well. Saffiano leather is an example of a printed leather.